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Suggested Citation:"References." National Research Council. 1989. Measuring and Understanding Coastal Processes. Washington, DC: The National Academies Press. doi: 10.17226/1445.
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Suggested Citation:"References." National Research Council. 1989. Measuring and Understanding Coastal Processes. Washington, DC: The National Academies Press. doi: 10.17226/1445.
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Suggested Citation:"References." National Research Council. 1989. Measuring and Understanding Coastal Processes. Washington, DC: The National Academies Press. doi: 10.17226/1445.
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Suggested Citation:"References." National Research Council. 1989. Measuring and Understanding Coastal Processes. Washington, DC: The National Academies Press. doi: 10.17226/1445.
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Suggested Citation:"References." National Research Council. 1989. Measuring and Understanding Coastal Processes. Washington, DC: The National Academies Press. doi: 10.17226/1445.
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Suggested Citation:"References." National Research Council. 1989. Measuring and Understanding Coastal Processes. Washington, DC: The National Academies Press. doi: 10.17226/1445.
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Suggested Citation:"References." National Research Council. 1989. Measuring and Understanding Coastal Processes. Washington, DC: The National Academies Press. doi: 10.17226/1445.
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Suggested Citation:"References." National Research Council. 1989. Measuring and Understanding Coastal Processes. Washington, DC: The National Academies Press. doi: 10.17226/1445.
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Suggested Citation:"References." National Research Council. 1989. Measuring and Understanding Coastal Processes. Washington, DC: The National Academies Press. doi: 10.17226/1445.
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Suggested Citation:"References." National Research Council. 1989. Measuring and Understanding Coastal Processes. Washington, DC: The National Academies Press. doi: 10.17226/1445.
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Suggested Citation:"References." National Research Council. 1989. Measuring and Understanding Coastal Processes. Washington, DC: The National Academies Press. doi: 10.17226/1445.
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Suggested Citation:"References." National Research Council. 1989. Measuring and Understanding Coastal Processes. Washington, DC: The National Academies Press. doi: 10.17226/1445.
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Suggested Citation:"References." National Research Council. 1989. Measuring and Understanding Coastal Processes. Washington, DC: The National Academies Press. doi: 10.17226/1445.
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Suggested Citation:"References." National Research Council. 1989. Measuring and Understanding Coastal Processes. Washington, DC: The National Academies Press. doi: 10.17226/1445.
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108 Bagnold, R.A., 1946. Motion of waves in shallow water interaction between waves and sand bottoms. Proc. R. Soc., London, Ser. A., v. 187, pp. 1-15. Bagnold, R.A., 1963. Mechanics of marine sedimentation. In: M.N. Hill, ea., The Sea, v. 3, pp. 507-528. Interscience, New York. Ballard, J.A., 1981. An energetic total load sediment model for a plane sloping beach. J. Geophys. Res., v. 86, pp. 1938-1954. Barrick, D.E., 1982. Status of HE radars for wave-height directional spectral measurements. In: Measuring Ocean Waves. National Academy Press, Washington, D.C. Bartz, R., J.R.V. Zaneveld, and H. Pak, 1978. A transmissometer for profiling and moored observations in water. Soc. Photo-Optical Instrumentation Eng., Ocean Optics V, pp. 102-108. Bascom, W.N., 1951. The relationship between sand size and beach force slope. Trans. Am. Geophys. Union, v. 32, pp. 86~874. Basu, A.K., 1983. Response of guyed tower to wave loading. Proc. 2d Int. Offshore Mech. Arctic Eng. Symp., Houston. Battjes, J.A., and J.P.F.M. Janssen, 1978. Energy lose and set-up due to breaking of random waves. Proc. 16th Int. Conf. Coastal Eng., pp. 569- 587. American Society of Civil Engineers, New York. Beach, R.A., and R.W. Sternberg, 1988. Wave-current interactions in the inner surf zone and their influence on suspended sediment transport. Proc. IAHR Symp. Mathematical Modelling of Sediment Transport in the Coastal Zone, pp. 156-165. Beach, R.A., J.R.V. Zaneveld, and H. Pak, 1978. A transmissometer for profiling and moored observations in water. Soc. Photo-Optical Instrumentation Eng., Ocean Optics V., pp. 102-108. Beal, R.C., D.G. Tilley, D.E. Irvine, E.J. Walsh, F.C. Jackson, D.W. Hancock III, D.E. Hines, R.N. Swift, F.I. Gonzalez, D.R. Lyzenga, and L.F. Zam- bresky, 1986. A comparison of SIR-B directional ocean wave spectra with aircraft scanning radar spectra. Science, v. 232, pp. 1531-1535. Birkemeier, W.A., 1985. Time scales of nearshore profile changer. Proc. 19th Int. Conf. Coastal Eng., pp. 1507-1526. American Society of Civil Engineers, New York. Blumberg, A.F., 1975. A numerical investigation into the dynamics of estuarine circulation, Chesapeake Bay Institute Report No. 91, Baltimore, Maryland. Bodge, K.R., and R.G. Dean, 1984. Wave measurement with differential pressure gauges, Proc. 19th Int. Conf. Coastal Eng., pp. 755-769. American Society of Civil Engineers, New York. Bouws, E., and J.A. Battjes, 1982. A Monte Carlo approach to the computation of refraction of water waves. J. Geophys. Res., v. 87(C8), pp. 5718-5722. Bouws, E., H. Gunther, W. Rosenthal, and C.L. Vincent, 1985. Similarity of the wind wave spectrum in finite depth water, 1. Spectral form. J. Geophys. Res., v. 90(G1), pp. 975-986. Bowen, A.J., 1969. The generation of longshore currents on a plane beach. J. Mar. Res., v. 27, pp. 206-215. Bowen, A.J., 1980. Simple models of nearshore sedimentation: Beach profiles and longshore bars. In: S.B. McCann, ea., The Coastline of Canada, Paper 80-10. Geological Survey of Canada, Ottawa, Ontario, Canada.

109 Brainard, E.C., II, and D.L. Gardner, 1982. Wave track and waverider heavy buoy intercomparison at the entrance to the Columbia River. In: Oceans '82 Conference Record. Industry, Government, Education Partners in Progress, pp. 861-866. Institute of Electrical and Electronics Engineers, Piscataway, New Jersey. Brampton, A.H., and S.M. Beven, 1987. Beach changes along the coast of Lincolnshire, U.K. (195~1985~. In: Proc. Coastal Sediments '87, New Orleans, Louisiana, pp. 53~554. American Society of Civil Engineers, New York. Brampton, A.H., and R.W. Sternberg, 1988. Suspended sediment transport in the surf zone: response to cross-shore infragravity motion. Mar. Geol., v. 80, pp. 61-79. Brink, K.H., and D.C. Chapman, 1985. Programs for computing properties of coastal trapped waves and wind-driven motion over continental shelf and slope. Tech. Rep. WHOI-85-17, p. 99. Woods Hole Oceanographic Institution, Woods Hole, Massachusetts. Brink, K.H., D.C. Chapman, and G.R. Halliwell, 1987. A stochastic model for wind-driven currents over the continental shelf. J. Geophys. Res., v. 92, pp. 1783-1797. Brown, C.B., 1950. Sediment transportation. In: H. Rouse, ea., Engineering Hydraulics, p. 1039. Wiley, New York. Butler, H.L., 1980. Evolution of a numerical model for simulating long period wave behavior in ocean-estuarine systems. In: Estuarine and Wetland Pro- cesses with Emphasis on Modeling, Marine Science Series, v. 11. Plenum Press, New York. Camfield, F.E., 1977. Wind-Wave Propagations Over Flooded, Vegetated Land. Tech paper no. 77-12. U.S. Army Corps of Engineers, Coastal Engineering Center, Fort Belvoir, Virginia. Carter, W.E., and D.S. Robertson, 1986. The application of geodetic radio interfermetric surveying to the monitoring of sea level. Geophys. J. R. Astron. Soc., v. 87, pp. 3-13. Carter, T.G., P.L. Liu, and C.C. Mel, 1973. Mass transport by waves and offshore sand bedforms. J. Waterways, Harbors, Coastal Eng. Div. Proc. Am. Soc. Civil Eng., v. 2, pp. 165-184. Clausner, J.E., W.A. Birkemeier, and G.R. Clark, 1986. Field Comparison of Four Nearshore Survey Systems. Miscellaneous paper no. CERC-86-6. U.S. Army Corps of Engineers. Clifton, 1976. Wave-generated structures a conceptual model. In: R.A. Davis and R.L. Ethington, eds., Beach and Nearshore Processes. Special Publication 24, pp. 126-148. Soc. Econ. Paleontal. Mineral. Coastal Engineering Research Center (CERC), U.S. Army Corps of Engineers, 1984. Shore Protection Manual. CERC Report MR-83-10. U.S. Army Corps of Engineers, Vicksburg, Mississippi. Collins, M.B., and C.B. Pattiaratchi, 1984. Identification of suspended sediment in coastal waters using airborne thematic mapper data. Int. J. Remote Sensing, v. 5, p. 635. Copeland, G.J.M, 1985. A practical alternative to the mild-slope wave equation. Coastal Eng., v. 9, pp. 125-149. Crandall, S.H., 1985. Non-Gaussian closure techniques for stationary random vibration. Int. J. Non-Linear Mech., v. 20.

110 Dally, W., R.G. Dean, and R.A. Dalrymple, 1985. Wave height variation across beaches of arbitrary profile. J. Geophys. Res., v. 90~6~. Dean, R.G., 1973. Heuristic models of sand transport in the surf zone. Proc. Conf. Eng. Dynamics in the Surf Zone, pp. 208-214. Institution of Engi- neers, Sidney, Australia. Dean, R.G., 1977. Equilibrium beach profiles: U.S. Atlantic and Gulf Coasts. Tech. Rep. No. 12. University of Delaware, Newark. Dean, R.G., and R.A. Dalrymple, 1984. Water Wave Mechanics for Engineers and Scientists, p. 353. Prentice-Hall, Englewood Cliffs, N.J. Dick, J.E., and R.A. Dalrymple, 1984. Coastal changes at Bethany Beach, Delaware, Proc. 19th Int. Conf. Coastal Eng., Houston, pp. 1650-1667. American Society of Civil Engineers, New York. Dingler, J.R., and D.L. Inman, 1976. Wave formed ripples in nearshore sands, Proc. 15th Int. Conf. Coastal Eng., Honolulu, pp. 21002126. American Society of Civil Engineers, New York. Doering, J.C., and A.J. Bowen, 1987. Skewness in the nearshore: a comparison of estimates from Marsh-McBirney current meters and colocated pressure sensors. J. Geophys. Res., v. 92. Downing, J.P., 1981. Particle counter for sediment transport studies. J. Hydraul. Div., Am. Sac. Civil Eng., v. 107, pp. 1455-1465. Downing, J.P., R.W. Sternberg, and C.R.B. Lister, 1981. New instrumentation for the investigation of suspended sediment processes in the shallow marine environment, Mar. Geol., v. 42, pp. 19-34. Drapeau, G., and B. Long, 1985. Measurements of bedload transport in the nearshore zone using radioisotopic sand tracers. Proc. 19th Conf. Coastal Eng., Houston, pp. 1252-1265. American Society of Civil Engineers, New York. Ebersole, B.A., 1985. Refraction-diEraction model for linear water waves. J. Waterway, Port, Coastal, and Ocean Engineering. v. 111. no. 6., pp. 939-953. American Society of Civil Engineers, New York. Ebersole, B.A., and R.A. Dalrymple, 1979. A Numerical Model for Nearshore Circulation Including Convective Acceleration and Lateral Mixing. De- partment of Civil Engineering, University of Delaware, Newark. Eble, M.C., F.I. Gonzalez, and E.N. Bernard, 1988. Deep ocean observations of three recent tsunamis in the Gulf of Alaska. Abstract; EOS, 69: 44, November, 1988, p. 1245. Edge, B.L., ed. 1985. Proc. 19th Int. Conf. Coastal Eng., Houston, p. 3282. American Society of Civil Engineers, New York. Einstein, H.A., 1950. The bed-load function for sediment transport in open channel floor. Tech. Bull. 1026, p. 78. SCS, U.S. Department of Agricul- ture, Washington, D.C. Einstein, H.A., 1972. A basic description of sediment transport on beaches. In: R.E. Meyer, ea., Waves on Beaches and Resulting Sediment Transport, p. 462. Academic Press, New York. Elgar, S., R.T. Guza, and S.J. Seymour, 1985. Wave group statistics from numerical simulations of a random sea. Appl. Ocean Res., v. 7, pp. 93-96. F`edosh, M.S., 1987. Segregating sediment resuspension processes with averaged Landsat data. Proc. Conf. Coastal Sediments '87, New Orleans, pp. 98-112. American Society of Civil Engineers, New York. Forristall, G.Z., 1974. Three-dimesional structure of storm generated currents. J. Geophys. Res., or. 79, pp. 2721-2729.

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Much of the U.S. coastline is rapidly changing—mostly eroding. That fact places increasing pressure on the planners and managers responsible for coastal development and protection, and could have a direct effect on many of the 125 million Americans living within 50 miles of the coast who rely on its resources and beaches for their livelihood or recreation. Although rapid advances have been made in the measurement systems needed to understand and describe the forces and changes at work in the surf-zone environment, their potential for allowing more accurate and reliable planning and engineering responses has not been fully realized. This book assesses coastal data needs, instrumentation, and analyses, and recommends areas in which more information or better instrumentation is needed.

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