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The Southern California Bight
No system of marine monitoring exists in the abstract. Monitoring
occurs in specific geographic regions that have particular qualities derived
from their natural characteristics and processes. The marine environment
in turn is affected by the human activities that take place in and adjacent
to it. Understanding the strengths and weaknesses of monitoring in the
Southern California Bight therefore requires a basic knowledge of the
physical setting and human activity within it.
This chapter describes the physical setting of the Southern California
Bight: its bathymetry, drainage basin, circulation and ocean-ography, cli-
mate, and hydrology. It also describes the natural habitats and resources of
the region and the land use and economic activities of the adjacent coastal
areas. Chapter 2 will describe in greater detail the sources and types of
habitat change and pollutant loadings to the marine environment that stem
from human activities in the bight.
PHYSICAL SETTING
The Southern California Bight is bounded on the north, east, and
southeast by a long cume of the North American coastline extending from
Point Conception in Santa Barbara County, southeast 357 mi to Cabo
Colnett, Baja California in Mexico (Figure 1-1~. It is bounded to the west
by the California Current, which flows southeasterly approximately parallel
to the coast and the edge of the continental shelf. The bight system includes
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more than 37,000 mi2 of ocean and approximately 8,700 mi2 of adjacent
coastal areas draining into it.
Bathymetry
The bathymetry underlying the Southern California Bight has many
features unique to the continental shelf surrounding the United States.
For this reason the area was named "continental borderland" by Shepard
and Emery (1941~. Topographic features in the continental borderland and
adjacent mainland drainage basin are summarized in Bible 1-1.
The waters of the bight overlay an alternating series of 2,000- to 8,000-
ft-deep basins and surfacing mountains that form 9 offshore islands or island
groups and several large submerged banks and seamounts. Nearshore,
12 large submarine canyons influence movement of sediments and other
materials deposited on the bottom. There are also 32 submarine canyons
on the continental slope bordering the U.S. portion of the bight, including
20 canyons that cut into the mainland shelf (Emery, 1960~. Offshore, there
are 18 marine basins, 3 of which are essentially anoxic.
These submarine canyons and deep basins are important sites of accu-
mulation of fine-grained sediments and particulate materials from land
runoff, ocean discharges, and ocean dumping. An important feature
throughout the bight is that deep water is close to shore. All slopes
are steep, ranging from 5 to 15 percent. Island and mainland shelves are
narrow, from less than 0.6-mi wide to a maximum of 12.5-mi wide. The
mainland and island shelves constitute only about 11 percent of continental
borderland area; marine basins cover about 80 percent of the borderland
area.
The most important embayments of the mainland shelf are Santa Mon-
ica Bay and San Pedro Bay (separated from each other by the prominent
and steeply sloping Palos Verdes Peninsula and shelf), San Diego Bay, and
Todos Santos Bay in Baja California. Although no true estuaries penetrate
the mainland coast, there are at least 26 wetland systems in coastal lagoons
and at the mouths of transient streams and rivers in the U.S. portion of the
bight (Figure 1-2~(Zedler, 1984~. The total area of these coastal wetlands is
only about 129 mi2, an estimated 25 percent of the area they encompassed
when the first Europeans arrived in Southern California in the late 1500s.
Drainage Basin
The onshore mainland drainage basin of the Southern California Bight,
occupied by an ever-increasing human population of nearly 15 million, is
a triangle-shaped, higher elevation extension of the offshore bathymetry.
It consists of nearly equal areas of mountains and basins or plains (Table
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Point Conception 119° 118° 117° 116°
At'. I
`~` Barbar~?~ ~ Hueneme Canyon
, ~aMGUEL ~ p I LOS ANGELES
SANTA Santa Redon
. ~ ROSA I. ~ Monica ~\ Canyon
~ ~\S~p~
1~'':
34o
ho
32O
31° _
3oo
f
i ~ /~ ~
_ 2000 ~
~ t ~ 2000
I ~ I 1 1 ~
120 119 118°
\ 2000
l
_ 33o
_ 32O
31°
: 1000 ~Uintin
117° 116°
300
FIGURE 1-1 Bathymetry of the Southern California Bight, emphasizing its deep basins
(shaded). Depth contours are shown in fathoms (1 fathom = 6 ft). SOURCE: Moore,
1969.
1-1). The rising shoreline is characterized by vertical scarps and wave-cut
cliffs. There are as many as 20 raised marine terraces on land that are an
extension of the 5 submerged terraces that lie at depths to 289 ft along the
mainland shelf (Emery, 1960~.
The drainage basin is bordered on the north by transverse (east-west
ranges extending from Point Conception eastward along the Santa Monica,
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TABLE 1-1 Topography and Bathymetry of the Southem California Bight Area
Area Area
Feature
Mi2 % Total % Borderland
Mainland
mountains4,600 10.0 --
basins and plains4,090 9.0 --
Subtotals_8,690 19.0 --
Borderland
islands340 0.7 1.1
mainland shelf1,890 4.1 6.2
island shelves1,390 3.0 4.6
bank tops2,420 5.3 8.0
basin and trough slopes19,120 42.0 63.3
basin and trough floors5,120 11.2 16.8
Continental slope1,960 4.3 --
Abyssal seafloor4,740 10.4 --
Subtotals36,980 81.0 --
Totals45,670 100.0 100.0
SOURCE: Emery, 1960.
San Gabriel, and San Bernardino mountains; and on the east by coastal
ranges that continue southward down the length of the Baja Peninsula
(SCCWRP, 1973~. These mountain ranges separate the semiarid coastal
plain from the very arid desert basins.
Because of the semiarid nature of the drainage basin and the highly
seasonal pattern of annual precipitation, most of the rivers draining into
the bight are small and are dry for much of the year. From north to south,
the major rivers in the drainage basin are the Santa Clara, Los Angeles,
San Gabriel, Santa Ana, San Luis Rey, San Diego, and Tijuana rivers
(Figure 1-2~. Much of the length of the Los Angeles and San Gabriel river
beds and other major drainages are now lined with concrete. Most rivers
have dams and debris basins constructed upstream to aid in flood control.
In Southern California, there are separate systems to handle stormwater
runoff and municipal wastewater flows.
Circulation and Oceanography
The western border of the Southern California Bight is marked by the
California Current, which flows southeastward along the coast, continuing
the clockwise geostrophic transport of water in the North Pacific Ocean
(Figure 1-3~. Water current regimes in the Southern California Bight are
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s
ETA CLARA RIVER
-4_~1-~ ~ LOSANGELES RIVER
~ ~ , ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ f l SAN GABRIEL RIVER
POINT CX~ ~ ~
~ j ) ~ MA MARGARITA
C t PALOSVERDES~LUIS REY RIVER
~)~P~
lo go 30 do ~Bo
SCALE IN ALES
p
4 <~,
'/C o
1. TIJUANA ESTUARY
2. SWEETWATER MARSH,
PARADISE CREEK MARSH,
E,f &~.MARSHES,
SOUTH SAN DIEGO BAY WETLANDS
3. MISSION BAY MARSH IKENDALL FROST RESERVEI.
FAMOSA SLOUGH AND CHANNEL
SAN DIEGO RIVER MARSH
4. LOS PENASQUITOS LAGOON
5. SAN DIEGUITO LAGOON
6. SAN ELIJO LAGOON
7. BATIQUlTOS LAGOON
B. AGUA H EDIONDA LAGOON
9. BUENA V ISTA LAGOON
10, SAN LUIS REY RIVER MARSH
11. SANTA MARGARITA RIVER
12, LAS FLORES MARSH
13. SAN MATED MARSH
14. UPPE R NEWPORT BAY
15. BOLSA CHICA BAY
16. ANAHEIM BAY,
HUNTINGTON BEACH MARSH,
SANTA ANA RIVER MARSH
17 ALAMITOS BAY (LOS CERRITOS MARSH)
18, BALLONA WETLANDS 1DEL REY LAGOONI,
BALLONA LAGOON, AND BALLONA MARSH
19, MALIBU CREEK
20. MUGU LAGOON
21 McGRATH LAKE
22. SANTA CLARA RIVER
23. V ENTU RA R IVE R
24. CARPINTERIA MARSH
25. GOLETA SLOUGH
2e. DEVERAUX LAGOON
SAN DIEGO RIVER
OR VeR
MEXICO
FIGURE 1-2 Location of Southern California coastal wetlands and major nvers. SOURCE:
Zedler, 1984.
complex and variable on seasonal and longer time scales. Only the general
patterns will be described here. Because of the eastward indentation of the
coast in the Southern California Bight, a surface counterclockwise gyre, the
Southern California Eddy, breaks off the California Current and carries
water northward through the central bight (Jones, 1971; Hickey, 1979~.
The eddy is usually well developed in summer and autumn and weak in
winter and spring.
Closer to the shore along the mainland shelf, prevailing onshore (north-
westerly) winds reverse this flow, resulting in a net aIongshore surface flow
toward the southeast at speeds of 1 to 3.3 cm/s (Lentz and Winant, 1979~.
Hendricks (1977) reported that the mean direction and velocity of water
currents just below the thermocline are upcoast at 3 cm/s, and that this
near-bottom current has a significant offshore component. Coastal currents
reach maximum velocity in water depths of about 197 ft (Jackson, 1986~.
These complex nearshore currents are interrupted by coastal headlands
and upwelling epicenters and respond to both regional and local land-sea
breezes. During the afternoon, sea breezes are responsible for both cool-
ing on land and shoreward movement of natural and man-made floating
materials.
There is also a very nearshore circulation pattern caused by surf along