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Problems and Opportunities in the Design of Entrances to Ports and Harbors Proceedings of a Symposium (1981) / Chapter Skim
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Waves at Ports and Harbors
Pages 133-140

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From page 133...
... In thin presentation, I wish to discuss the state of the art in estimating wave conditions in port areas, and direct your attention to areas where work is needed. I wish to emphasize two areas: developing a wave climate and modeling waves.
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From page 134...
... The data synthetically produced by bindcast models or measured directly by gaging programs can provide the wealth of data required to understand waves at ports and harbor entrances. The data extend beyond providing just significant wave heights and periods to aspects of directionality and grouping.
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From page 135...
... C Rosenfeld, Oregon State National Guard Remote Sensing Group.
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From page 136...
... The Hsaio model allows intraspectral energy transfers; Wang and Yang allows currents ; none treats diffraction. The advantage of the spectral techniques is that they consider the entire wave spectrum, and can treat the effects of refraction of each wave component.
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From page 137...
... Wang and Yang (1977) MECHANISMS INCLUDED Wave growth' refraction shoaling, bottom friction Wave growth, refraction, shoaling, various bottom interaction terms Refraction, shoaling TABLE 3 SOME REGULAR WAVE PREDICTION MODELS DEVELOPER/REFERENCE Birkemeier and Dalrymple {1975)
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From page 138...
... Researab is required to extend the applicability of numerical models and to develop more economical solution techniques. Research is also required to improve simulation of irregular waves in physical models.
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From page 139...
... E., Operational Computer Based Spectral Wave Specification and Forecasting Models, n The University Institute of Oceanography of the City University of New York, Report prepared for the SPOC Group of the National Environmental Satellite Service, National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration, 1974.
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From page 140...
... So, with any one frequency component you can go to 16 or 24 points of the compass and have an estimate of how much energy is going in each of those directions and get a truly directional spectrum. DEAN: One of the types of waves you didn't mention that can be of interest to the port designer is the second-order-of-force waves driven by groups of waves.
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Key Terms

  • wave climate
  • shallow water
  • grid mesh
  • wave growth
  • deep water

  • physical model
  • finite difference
  • wave prediction
  • modeling wave
  • numerical modeling

  • reflected waves
  • finite differences
  • numerical models
  • north sea
  • short waves

  • wave length
  • physical modeling
  • element models
  • prediction models
  • wave conditions

  • numerical model
  • irregular waves
  • harbor entrances
  • spectral characteristics
  • boussinesq model

  • wave heights
  • refraction diffraction
  • wave component
  • include significant
  • hindcast model


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