Oceanography in 2025 Proceedings of a Workshop (2009) / Chapter Skim
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Large Scale Phase-resolved Simulations of Ocean Surface Waves--Yuming Liu and Dick K.P. Yue
Large Scale Phase-resolved Simulations of Ocean Surface Waves--Yuming Liu and Dick K.P. Yue
Pages 171-176
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From page 171... ...
Background The accurate prediction of ocean surface wavefield evolutions is a challenging task due to nonlinearities in the wave interactions, the difficulties in modeling wave-breaking dissipation and wind forcing, and, in the context of coastal environment, effects of currents, bottom bathymetry and properties, and the presence of coastlines. Until recently, phase-averaged models such as WAve Prediction Models (WAM; for deep ocean)
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From page 172... ...
These models are developed based on the phase-averaged energy-balance equation with physical effects associated with nonlinear wave interactions, wind input, and wave-breaking/bottom dissipations modeled as "source" terms. While much progress has been made over the past decades in the basic approach and in the parameterizations of the model terms, the success has not been uniform, with predictions often falling outside the error band of the observations or in some cases outright failing.
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From page 173... ...
The real challenge however is likely not technical/computational, but scientific, in the modeling and capturing the myriad physics associated with the evolution of the wavefield, and in the availability of concurrent highresolution measurements for calibration and validation, all in the phaseresolved context. Sample results To date, we have used SNOW to obtain nonlinear wave-wave interactions in deep water and finite depth including current and complex bathymetry and bottom properties, with relatively simple phenomenological models for wind forcing and wave breaking dissipation.
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From page 174... ...
10 –2 10 –2 10 –3 10 –3 10 –4 10 –4 10 –5 10 –5 0 1 2 3 4 0 1 2 3 4 R/ηrms R/ηrms FIGURE 1 Comparison of exceeding probability of crest heights for various Jonswap wave spectrum parameters. The results are obtained from phase-resolved SNOW simulations in a domain of 30 km × 30 km after an evolution time of t/Tp = 100 for wavefields with significant wave height Hs = 10 m, peak period Tp = 12 Yue_Fig1.eps s and four combinations of enhancement parameter γ and spreading angle Θ: γ = 1.0 and Θ = 80° (top left)
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From page 175... ...
The wavefield has a significant wave height Hs = 7.0 m and peak period Tp bitmap images North Sea.
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