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Future of Nearshore Processes Research--Rob Holman
Pages 98-100

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From page 98...
... Nowcasts, for which bathymetry is unchanging, are a physical oceanography problem with the mobility of the sediments introducing only small boundary layer effects. Predictions of the short-term system evolution of a specific bathymetry, akin to short-term weather forecasts for the atmosphere, can be carried out using coupled models of fluid and sediment response.
From page 99...
... Due to the harsh nature of the environment and the rapid evolution of variables such as bathymetry, remote sensing will play a growing role in both research and applications. A renewed focus on the physics of electromagnetic scattering from the surface and interior will allow us to exploit previously empirical relationships between remote sensing signatures and geophysical variables, some of which will have no in situ measurement analog.
From page 100...
... Hopefully we will discover simplifying principles to some of the vexing components of the nearshore problem. For example, bottom bed roughness may respond to overlying flows according to some macroscopic principle that simplifies bottom stress calculations (akin to turbulence principles)


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